April 2007

Table of Contents

· April in Paris
· Vive le Poisson!
· Easter in France
· April's Addresses
- Shopping
- Eating
- Sleeping
PARIS TRIP (link)

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April in Paris - Spring Has Sprung!

Paris had almost no winter this year, until around mid-March when the temperatures plummeted and the cold rain came down. But those days are over, and April in Paris is promises to be very mild, with a mixture of sunshine and showers throughout the month. The gardens are in full bloom, the outdoor café scene comes alive, the street performers are back in action, and the crowds are on their way back to Paris, the most visited city in the world.

 
April 1 in Paris….Vive le Poisson!

April 1 in France is known as the “Poisson d’Avril”. It is their own version of April Fool’s Day, where children will amuse themselves taping paper fish on the backs of unsuspecting adults, getting a laugh as the adults carry on about their day not realizing they are sporting a fish on their back! When it is discovered, the children yell out a hearty “Poisson d’Avril!” and a good laugh is had.

At this time of year, French pâtisseries and chocolatiers have beautiful window displays full of different sizes and shapes of fish to help celebrate this longstanding French tradition. Some are small, maybe an inch long. Others are large and ornate, beautifully shaped and made of the finest French chocolate. Many times their mouths are full of more candies.

The tradition dates back to 1564. Until that date, April 1 was considered the first day of the year. It was King Charles IX who created a law that the New Year would begin on January 1. True to French fashion, some French citizens rebelled against this law and continued to celebrate April 1 as the beginning of the year. To mock them, people would give them ridiculous gifts for their “fake” New Year. Of course, this story is based on a legend whose accuracy might be questionable!

 
 Easter in France
Paris at Easter is really wonderful, if you can see past the crowds, since this is the start of “tourist season”. The windows of the Parisian patisseries and chocolatiers are like works of art at Easter. The beautiful cellophane wrapped eggs, the white, milk and dark chocolate chicks. The Easter bells. Easter bells? Yes, Easter bells. You see, in France, there is no Easter bunny. Instead, they have the “Cloches de Pâques” or Easter bells. Traditionally, French church bells remain silent from the Thursday before Easter until Easter morning. The French Easter tradition is that the church bells fly to the Vatican in Rome, returning to France in time for the Easter celebration, depositing chocolates and eggs all over the gardens of French children. When the church bells ring on Easter morning, the children know that the Easter bells have passed overhead and it’s time to gather their treats.

If you will be in Paris this Easter, there are a few things to remember. First of all, as it is a holiday many shops and restaurants will be closed for the day. Some will remain closed the following day as well (Easter Monday). Be sure to call before arriving at a restaurant, as you don’t want to be standing outside a locked door.

April’s Addresses
shopping
Ok, so this is about food shopping so it could go under the “eating” category. But it’s about éclairs, so it is of great importance: Where can you buy the best éclair au chocolat in Paris?

Le Figaro asked that question, and put 20 pastry shops to the taste test. Six people were chosen for the jury, both amateurs and professionals.

The criteria? Freshness of the pastry itself, visual aspect of the icing, quality of the chocolate filling, harmony of tastes between the icing and the filling (not too sweet, cohesive textures), welcome of the shopkeepers, and packaging of the eclairs.

And here are the pastry shops that create the best eclairs au chocolat in Paris (Final Ranking is the Number before Each Shop):
1 - Carette (4 place du Trocadéro XVIe)
2 - Jean-paul Hevin (23 bis avenue de la Motte-Piquet VIIe)
3 - Stohrer (51 rue Montorgueil IIe)
3 - Ladurée (16 rue Royale VIIIe)
5 - Vandermeersch (278 av. Daumesnil XIIe)
6 - La Maison du Chocolat (8 bd. de la Madeleine VIIIe)
6 - Lenôtre (15 bd. de Courcelles VIIIe)
8 - Blé Sucré (7 rue Antoine Vollon XIIe)
9 - Rollet-Pradier (6 rue de Bourgogne VIIe)
9 - Dalloyau (101 rue du Faubourg St Honoré VIIIe)
11 - La Gerbe d’Antan (249 bd Voltaire XIe)
11 - Fauchon (26 place de la Madeleine VIIIe)
11 - Pascal Pinaud (70 rue Monge Ve)
14 - Gérard Mulot (76 rue de Seine VIe)
15 - Arnaud Lahrer (53 rue de Caulaincourt XVIIIe)
15 - Arnaud Delmontel (39 rue des Martyrs IXe)
17 - Paul (17 et 21 rue de Buci VIe)
17 - Kayser (10 rue de l’Ancienne Comédie VIe)
17 - Rousseau et Seurre (22 rue des Martyrs IXe)
17 - Laurent Duchêne ( 2 rue Wurtz (XIIIe)

 
eating
Le Café de l’Homme
17 place du Trocadéro, 75016
011 33 (0)1 44 05 30 15
Métro: Trocadéro
www.lecafedelhomme.com

People ask all the time, “Where can I find good food with a good view of the Eiffel Tower?”

While this seems to be a typical question, there have not always been easy answers…the Eiffel Tower, in the western area of Paris, is not surrounded by restaurants with views.

But now, with the newly remodeled Musée de l’Homme directly across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, there is a new restaurant with a view: Le Café de l’Homme.

Le Café de l’Homme is the museum’s restaurant, but this is not your typical museum fare. The menu features French greats such as foie gras and sole meunière, as well as jumbo prawns, black truffle risotto, a variety of decadent desserts, and a wonderful wine list. Try to get a table on the terrace, which looks directly upon the Eiffel Tower. Come at night and watch the tower sparkle, or come in the day and watch the boats on the Seine in the tower’s shadow.

At dinner, starters average about 18€ and main courses are around 30€. Desserts are around 9€. If that is too much for you, you can always come for tea in the mid-afternoon or for cocktails later in the evening. Hint: if you want a table on the terrace, be sure to ask for it when reserving. You won’t be sorry!

Lunch: 12:00 – 2:30 p.m.
Dinner: 7:30 p.m. – 11:30 p.m.
Tea and pastry: 2:30 p.m. – 6:00 p.m.

sleeping
Hôtel du Panthéon
19, place du Panthéon, 75005
Métro: Maubert Mutualité
Tél: 011 33 (1) 43 54 32 95
Fax: 011 33 (1) 43 26 64 65
Link to Website

This hotel has a superb location, right in the center of the fifth arrondissement, facing the beautiful Panthéon and a stone’s throw from the Luxembourg Gardens.

The rooms are decorated with antiques and beautiful fabrics, even on the walls! The rooms facing the Panthéon are in demand, so if you want the view be sure to book far in advance and to ask for it. Bathrooms are clean and modern, and include stall showers, which are rare in Parisian hotels.

The hotel has air conditioning, an elevator, and in the rooms are hair driers, mini-bars and safes. Rates vary by season, but a superior double does not go over 255€ per night. Check their web site for your specific room and dates.