April 2006

Vol. 1 Issue 1

 
 

Table of Contents

· Springtime In Paris!
· April Fool’s Day! April Fish Day?
· Easter in Paris
· What to do in Paris on Easter?
· April’s Addresses
  - Shopping
- Drinking
- Eating
- Sleeping
- Dancing
- Exploring
 
 

 
Springtime In Paris!

Springtime in Paris is such a beautiful season that multiple songs have been written about it.  It is true that it is the season where love is in bloom, as you can clearly see in parks, cafés, along the riverbanks.  It is the season where the flowers bloom as well, and the

beautiful Parisian parks (Luxembourg Gardens, Tuileries, Bois de Boulogne, Bois de Vincennes, Versailles gardens) take on a brilliant color palette after the long gloomy winter.  It is the season where the Parisians are out more:  walking, going to market to buy springtime’s fresh produce, eating in the outdoor cafés and restaurants, sitting in the parks and along the banks of the Seine.  It is truly the season where Paris comes alive.  As the song goes, “I love Paris in the springtime”…

 
April Fool’s Day! April Fish Day?

April 1 in France is known as the “Poisson d’Avril”. It is their own version of April Fool’s Day, where children will amuse themselves taping paper fish on the backs of unsuspecting adults, getting a laugh as the adults carry on about their day not realizing they are sporting a fish on their back! When it is discovered, the children yell out a hearty “Poisson d’Avril!” and a good laugh is had.

At this time of year, French pâtisseries and chocolatiers have beautiful window displays full of different sizes and shapes of fish to help celebrate this longstanding French tradition. Some are small, maybe an inch long. Others are large and ornate, beautifully shaped and made of the finest French chocolate. Many times their mouths are full of more candies.

The tradition dates back to 1564. Until that date, April 1 was considered the first day of the year. It was King Charles IX who created a law that the new year would begin on January 1. True to French fashion, some French citizens rebelled against this law and continued to celebrate April 1 as the beginning of the year. To mock them, people would give them ridiculous gifts for their “fake” New Year. Of course, this story is based on a legend whose accuracy might be questionable!

 
Easter in Paris

If you will be in Paris this Easter, there are a few things to remember. First of all, as it is a holiday many shops and restaurants will be closed for the day. Some will remain closed the following day as well (Easter Monday). Be sure to call before arriving at a restaurant, as you don’t want to be standing outside a locked door.

The windows of the Parisian patisseries and chocolatiers are like works of art at Easter. The beautiful cellophane wrapped eggs, the white, milk and dark chocolate chicks. The Easter bells. Easter bells? Yes, Easter bells. You see, in France, there is no Easter bunny. Instead, they have the “Cloches de Pâques” or Easter bells. These are the bells that fly across France, dropping chocolates and treats in the grass, under trees and in the bushes. When the children hear the church bells on Easter morning, that is their signal that the Easter bells have passed and they run out looking for their Easter goodies.

French church bells remain silent from the Thursday before Easter until Easter morning. The French Easter tradition is that the church bells fly to the Vatican in Rome, returning to France in time for the Easter celebration, depositing chocolates and eggs all over the gardens of French children.

 
What to do in Paris on Easter?

A beautiful way to celebrate Easter Sunday in Paris would be to attend Mass at Notre Dame, followed by brunch at the Ritz.

Notre Dame Cathedral has masses on Sunday at 8:30 a.m., at 10:00 a.m. (mass with Gregorian chant), 11:30 a.m. with choir, 12:45 p.m. and 6:30 p.m.

Brunch at the Ritz on Sunday April 16 from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. The brunch will begin with an Easter egg hunt in the Ritz’s gardens, where children and adults alike will be greeted by live bunnies while searching for chocolate eggs.

The meal will consist of eggs with foie gras mousse, quail eggs with salmon roe, stuffed duck, pâté en croûte, lamb, pastries and Easter chocolates.

That afternoon, the Ritz pastry chef will open his chocolate workshop to guests who will create their own chocolate Easter eggs. (Must be reserved in when making the brunch reservation).

Cost: 86€ per person, 40€ under 12, free for children under 5 (maximum of 2).

Contact information:
Hôtel Ritz Paris
15, Place Vendôme
Tel: 01 43 16 30 30
Fax: 01 43 16 45 38
Email: Resa@Ritzparis.com

A great way to top of your day would be a cruise on the Seine or on the Canal St. Martin.

 
April’s Addresses
 
shopping
Bonpoint Maison
6 rue de Tournon, 6th
tel: 01 40 51 98 20
metro: Odeon
www.bonpoint.fr


Bonpoint is a beautiful Parisian children’s clothing store. It may be pricey, but it’s definitely chock full of heirloom quality clothing and gifts for children from birth through age 8. It has recently opened this location in a beautiful mansion in the St. Germain district. Normally a small boutique, this branch is huge, as it’s the new headquarters. The shop includes clothing, shoes, a garden and a tea room. Don’t fear bringing your little ones, there is a fun play cabin in one of the rooms. Whether you buy something or not, it’s a beautiful place to browse. And at Easter time, its collection of dresses for little girls is precious.

 
drinking
The Hemingway Bar at the Ritz Hotel
38 rue Cambron, 75001
01 43 16 30 60

As the name suggests, this is the bar that Ernest Hemingway spent so much time in during his days in Paris. This bar is definitely a gentleman’s bar, you won’t see your typical Ritz glitz and flowery prints in here. Leather chairs, dark woods and perfectly mixed (and expensive) drinks reign at the Hemingway Bar. A great place to stop before dinner.

 
eating
Senderens
9, Place de la Madeleine, 75008
Tél : 01 42 65 22 90
Fax : 01 42 65 06 23
Open Monday - Sunday
lunch: 12h - 15h, dinner: 19h - 23h30
Approximate price per person: 80 - 100€

Yes, Senderens is expensive. But compared to what it used to be (around 250 € per person), it’s a steal. Alain Senderens, bored and tired of his pompous “Lucas Carton” restaurant, re-opened last September under the simple name Senderens. Gone are the gloomy waiters and stuffy atmosphere, in are the young, the hip, the stylish folk of Paris. Gone are the complex recipes, in are the more simple yet delicious dishes. Gone is the stuffy decor, in is the stylish new decor conceived by a top designer. In spite of Senderens desire to be omitted from the Bible of French gastronomy -- the Michelin Red Guide – they found him, and gave him 2 out of 3 stars. Keep in mind, getting one star is a major accomplishment for any French chef. But ironically this chef wanted to do away with his stars and just cook good food for a more diverse crowd. If you go, be sure to reserve as this is a coveted spot!

 
sleeping
This hotel will be added to ParisTripTips.com shortly. This review is by ParisTripTips reader, Mary Connolly. We thank her for her contribution!

Hôtel Jeanne d'Arc
Address: 3, rue de Jarente 75004
Metro: St-Paul
Tel: 01-48-87-62-11
Fax: 01-48-87-37-31
Web: www.hoteljeannedarc.com
Rates: Single: 58 – 96 €
Double / Twin: 82 – 115 €
Triple: 115 €
Quad: 145€
City tax included
Cards: MasterCard, Visa
Breakfast: 6 €
English: Yes

Photo by Mary Connolly

The Hotel Jeanne d’Arc is a charming hotel located in a quiet, provincial area in the heart of the Marais. Several rooms are decorated with blue & green oriental carpet, coral bedspread & wallpaper while others are decorated in blue. Although some rooms may be a bit snug (larger doubles are noted for their spaciousness) you’ll be greeted with beamed ceilings, French windows, desk, and quaint light fixtures. If you’re lucky enough to garner rooms on the 6th floor or higher you’ll have access to rooftop views.

Photo by Mary Connolly

Considered one of the safest areas in Paris, the Marais is a haven for single women travelers and this section of the Marais provides one of the best areas for shopping (antiques, galleries, jewelry, and small independent designer shops). It is also filled with the cobblestone streets so indicative of Paris where you’ll stumble upon charming squares such as the restaurant-lined Place du Marché Ste-Catherine (an almost-hidden square located around the corner from the hotel) or the famous & historical Place des Vosges, which is just a 2 or 3 minute walk away. The Marais is also host to a plethora of museums with the Musée Carnavalet, Musée Picasso & Maison de Victor Hugo situated a 5 minutes walk from this hotel; walk a bit further and you’ll find the center of modern art, the Centre Pompidou (also known as le Beaubourg).

You’ll be happy to note there are several great boulangeries/patisseries (bakery/pastry shops) in the vicinity: Miss’ Manon & Paul on rue St-Antoine, and the famous Jewish bakery, Sacha Finkelsztajn, on the rue des Rosiers.

Tip: if possible, deal directly with Stefan.

 
dancing
Batofar
Near 11 quai Francois-Mauriac, 75013
Metro: Bibliotheque Francois Mitterand
From metro stop, take stairs down to the river.

Also at the same location (the Quai Francois-Mauriac) is La Guinguette Pirate, a great venue for French music and blues. They also have childrens’ programs. Dinner is served there, with menus between 20-30 euros.

“Batofar” is a 147 foot ship in the Seine that hosts some of the most exciting alternative music parties in Paris. Great DJs and an extremely innovative environment make this a memorable way to dance away the evening. This is particularly fun in the warm summer months when you can sip your aperitif on the deck of the boat. Check their Web site for information. (In French).

 
exploring
Ingrès Exhibit at the Musée du Louvre
34-36 quai du Louvre, 75001
Metro: Palais Royal- Musée du Louvre
Admission: 8.50 €
Sundays are free for children 17 and under.
First Sunday of the month is free for every visitor.
Open: Monday and Wednesday 9 a.m. – 9:30 p.m.
Thursday – Sunday 9 a.m. – 6 p.m.
CLOSED on Tuesday

Ingres lived from 1780 – 1867 and was considered an eccentric artist during his lifetime. He would go on to be loved by 20th century artists such as Picasso. At the Louvre until May 15, you can see 180 of his pieces — the largest exhibition of his works in 40 years. Keep in mind, this exhibit is extremely popular and lines can be long. But it is worth the wait.