August in Paris…for some it’s a dream with fewer crowds, no traffic jams and warm weather. For others who are searching for a good place to eat, it can be a nightmare.
Many of Paris’s restaurants and small shops close for at least two weeks in August, some for the entire month. Parisians flock to the coasts for vacation, leaving the city to the tourists and to those Parisians who choose to take their vacation at another time of the year.
There are, however, some restaurants that will remain open during the month of August. Here is a list of some of them. It is always best to call or fax the restaurant before you show up, to be sure it is open and to make a reservation.
Senderens, 8th arr. which is only closing on weekends but not on weekdays.
Au Pied de Cochon 1st arr.
Astier 11th arr.
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon 5, rue de Montalembert, 7th arr.
Phone: 01-42-22-56-56
La Table de Joel Robuchon 16, av. Bugeaud, 16th arr. Phone: 01 56 28 16 16
Wadja 10 rue de Grande Chaumiere, 6th arr.
Tel: 01 46 33 02 02
Les Bouquinistes 6th arr. (This may be closed part of the month. It is best to call or email first).
Ze Kitchen Galerie 4, rue des Grands Augustins 6th arr.
Tel: 01 44 32 00 32
The Brasserie “Flo” and all its branches (Balzar, etc.) Tel: 01 46 33 02 02
Le Dome 108 Blvd du Montparnasse, 14th arr. is only closed on Sundays and Mondays in August
Jules Verne
Mansouria (Moroccan) 11 rue Faidherbe 11th arr. Tel: 01 43 71 00 16
Aux Lyonnais 32 rue St. Marc, 2nd arr. Tel 01 42 96 65 04 is closed until August 22
Spoon, Food and Wine 14, rue Marignan, Paris, 8th arr. opens in mid-August
Mon Vieil Ami 69 rue Saint Louis en L’Ile, 4th arr. opens August 16
Atelier Maitre Albert 5th arr. is closed only the first two weeks of August
Allard 41 rue St. André des Arts, 6th arr. Tel: 01 43 26 48 23 is closed the first three weeks of August
By Robert Marquand, Staff writer of The Christian Science Monitor Fri Jul 6, 4:00 AM ET
Paris - The socialist mayor of Paris, Bertrand Delanoë, has seen the future and it’s got two wheels, three speeds, an adjustable seat, indestructible tires, a basket, and a bell. It’s 50 pounds of ecofriendly handlebars, comin’ at ya.
The French are turning Paris into a bicycle zone, pretty much overnight. Even now, astride small alleys and behind boulangeries, paving stones are being ripped to fit 750 bicycle rent “stations.”
On July 15, a day after the French Revolution anniversary, the city of lights will kick off a “vélorution” with 10,648 rentable bikes, or vélos. By January, some 1,400 rent stations and 20,600 bikes are scheduled to be in place. In Paris proper, one will never be more than 900 feet from a set of cheap wheels. At least theoretically.
Similar programs have been launched elsewhere with varying success. But Paris officials say their city is the first world capital to adopt a major green biking initiative, and they are doing it in a way that may be too big to fail. The ambitious Paris project is titled Vélib’ – wordplay for bicycle freedom. Read: freedom from too many cars and carbon fumes.
“When I first got involved with Vélib, I was amazed at the number of stations, 750 to start with, and the enthusiasm of everyone for reducing auto traffic,” says Jonathan Pierson, a Paris native who’s part of a team of young Parisians hosting questions at Vélib stations during the day.
Amsterdam, a city not unfamiliar with bikes, tried a similar experiment that foundered. But the French think they’ve conquered the kinks. A bike-rental program started in Lyon in 2005 is working.
One clincher for the Paris project: Vélib isn’t costing the city anything, and should be self-supporting. The program is financed by advertising behemoth JC Decaux – in exchange for 1,600 billboards around the city.
The concept is computerized and credit card driven. Each station has a large ATM-sized panel that gives instructions in French, German, English, and Chinese. Riders buy in for a day (1 rules), a week (5 rules), or a year (29 euro). The panel issues a card that can be swiped over a small locking pod to release the bike.
It is also a concept designed mainly for commuters, not tourists seeking a languid ride along the Seine. Riders have 30 minutes to get to their destination before any charge is made. After 30 minutes, the cost is 1 euro ($1.36). The bike is 2 rules for 1.5 hours, and 4 euro for 2 hours. “We hope each bike is used 10 to 14 times a day,” says Pierson, who notes that the stations are open 24/7.
A rider who arrives to find no locking pods available, checks in, and is given another free 15 minutes and directions to the closest space. Need to stop for a baguette? The bike has a lock.
Yet there’s also some personal responsibility tied up with bicycle freedom. To avoid problems found in Lyon – nearly half of its 1,000 bikes disappeared or were destroyed in the first year – initial membership in the Paris program puts a 150 euros hold on the credit card. People are charged for bikes that aren’t returned, placing an emphasis on rider care and oversight. Should a bike not be returned, an alarm inside the bike will go off.
Today, Lyon’s program seems to have lost its training wheels; it now has 4,000 bikes that get ridden 20,000 times a day, more than 40 percent of which are used by office workers.
Paris officials hope to register 200,000 rides a day. Perhaps one can amend Ezra Pound’s famous 1913 modernist reflection on the Paris metro: “…faces in the crowd/petals on a wet black bough” to “pedals on a silver-grey vélo.”
Not that Parisians won’t have to adjust. The French are fond of the idea of civilization and the vision of a city suffused with bike commuters is a humanist heaven. The problem is that Paris streets are Darwinist by nature. The 19th-century avenues are host to 21st-century traffic. The bulk of movement is not by vélos, but by Jurassic Park-like véloceraptors – aggressive autos and packs of even more aggressive motorscooters that tunnel through and sweep around car lanes and backed-up traffic.
City fathers and mothers argue that Parisian drivers will simply start to adjust. Such is the faith.
In the past two years, Paris has created larger zones for bikes, buses, and taxis. But there’s no history of bike helmet wearing. Paris commuters in the morning and evening aren’t particularly patient, and bike stations only have one sign-up panel. Some Parisians question the vélo station courtesy levels late at night, when students and partygoers want to get home.
For all the Tour de France glam and a general rise in bicycle culture in France, Paris has not been a bike town. A rising tide of bikers, though, are notorious for riding on sidewalks, ignoring traffic signals, and biking the wrong way on all those one-way streets.
Ann-Marie Fouchet of the Geppeto Vélo bike shop on the Left Bank feels the program “is good as a way to establish biking in Paris.” But she says that Parisians are not used to dealing with bikes on the road. Every Friday evening about 500 bikers join for a tour of the city, during which “cars aren’t always courteous and the bikers are not always knowing how to deal with them,” Ms. Fouchet says.
Another niggling factor amid the revolutionary fervor: parking. Parisians may like the idea of bike heaven, but few want their already crowded parking spaces absconded. To the barricades!
Albert Asseraf, director of marketing at Decaux, says that the bike project is so broad that after July 15, 2007, Parisians will refer to “before Vélib, and after Vélib.”
Ok. Vive le vélo!
This is a good article for anyone who has ever heard that “the French aren’t nice to tourists.” Not only do I find this untrue, so do many visitors who finally go there and see for themselves. But Bertrand Delanoe isn’t taking any chances losing his “#1 tourist destination” label, and he’s asking fellow Parisians to please “be kind”.
By ANTONIO OLIVEIRA, Associated Press Writer
Tue Jul 10, 8:26 AM ET
PARIS - Their city is the world’s No. 1 tourist destination, yet Parisians sometimes seem downright grumpy about it.
On Monday, city officials set out to change that, urging cab drivers to smile and telling waiters to try out their English.
Tourists, too, were given tips like “try out French products” instead of heading to the first Starbucks in search of friendly service.
As Mayor Bertrand Delanoe launched the first Paris Tourist Day on the sprawling Trocadero Plaza across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, the response from passers-by was predictable: Parisians said their rude reputation was exaggerated. Visitors disagreed.
Paul Roll, director of the Paris Tourism Office, conceded that the French capital has a “rather unfriendly” image but defended his compatriots.
“French citizens are shy when they need to speak in a foreign language. They have a very strong accent, which makes it difficult to understand,” he said.
He said the campaign was aimed at making Parisians understand how important tourists are to their city’s economic growth, and to help them improve their habits when dealing with foreigners. A full 12 percent of jobs in Paris are directly connected to tourism, Roll said.
“To be frank,” said Brazilian tourist Joana D’Arc de Almeida, “I think Paris needs to learn a lot about how to deal with tourists, because that’s what brings money to the city. It looks like they have so much money from it already that they don’t care about people anymore.”
She said she’s determined, regardless, to adapt to the “French way of doing things.”
Tour guide Nicole Rimbaud insisted her fellow Parisians’ “habits are really changing.”
“If (visitors) make an effort and try to explain to Parisians that they don’t speak French instead of speaking English right away, (French) people can be very warm, actually,” she said.
Cab driver Mustafah Hammoum welcomed the friendliness campaign — but said in general his colleagues are “quite nice.”
“We do our best,” he said.
“What could we improve? Well, traffic, that’s for sure. And English skills, why not. There are lots of cab drivers who don’t speak that language. It’s a real problem when people can’t understand each other,” he said.
Many Parisian cab drivers aren’t native French speakers, either, adding to the challenges for passengers.
Bystanders at the Trocadero event were offered Parisian water, orange juice and brochures with a “Charter for the Parisian and Visitor.”
“I will take the time to give information to visitors. I will make use of my foreign language skills to reply to them in their language,” reads one item of advice to Parisians.
To tourists, the brochure says, “I will experience the Parisian lifestyle” and “I will take advantage of my stay to try French products.”
It’s not the first time the city has sought to clean up its manners, nor the last. While Monday’s event was a one-day affair, city officials are also offering long-term friendliness projects.
“Ambassadors of Welcome” kiosks went up for the summer in five strategic tourist sites, like near Notre Dame Cathedral and Place de la Bastille.
In any case, Roll notes, despite tourists’ fears of surly Parisian service, when they get here they usually change their minds. He said 97 percent of those who visit say they want to come back.
Paris saw 15.3 million visitors in 2006 from foreign countries and elsewhere in France, according to the Paris region tourist bureau.