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Paris is always the City of Lights, and this is especially true at Christmastime.  From now through New Year’s you can experience the beautiful Christmas lights in every neighborhood of the city, and most especially in the windows of its department stores, such as Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, Bon Marche and Monoprix.

Here is a list of the various areas of town which will have a display this year:

Animations de fin d’année : Un Noël où les Contes de Fées prennent vie 
Festivals and festivities / , Festivities / 
DISNEYLAND RESORT PARIS
Ile-de-France (MARNE LA VALLEE) 

Department store Christmas windows: Galeries Lafayette 
Festivals and festivities / , Festivities / 
GALERIES LAFAYETTE.
Montmartre/Pigalle/Trinité | Opéra/Grands boulevards (PARIS 09) 
 
Champs Elysees (Paris 08)
 
 
Christmas illuminations: Rues Lepic, Abbesses 

VILLAGE LEPIC/ABBESSES
Montmartre/Pigalle/Trinité (PARIS 18) 

 Place Vendôme, rue de la Paix, rue de Castiglione
Festivals and festivities / , Festivities / 
PLACE VENDOME
Marais/Les Halles | Champs-Elysées/Musée du Louvre | Opéra/Grands boulevards (PARIS 01) 
 

 
 

Paris is always the City of Lights, and this is especially true at Christmastime.  From now through New Year’s you can experience the beautiful Christmas lights in every neighborhood of the city, and most especially in the windows of its department stores, such as Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, Bon Marche and Monoprix.

Here is a list of the various areas of town which will have a display this year:

Animations de fin d’année : Un Noël où les Contes de Fées prennent vie 
Festivals and festivities / , Festivities / 
DISNEYLAND RESORT PARIS
Ile-de-France (MARNE LA VALLEE) 

Department store Christmas windows: Galeries Lafayette 
Festivals and festivities / , Festivities / 
GALERIES LAFAYETTE.
Montmartre/Pigalle/Trinité | Opéra/Grands boulevards (PARIS 09) 
 
Champs Elysees (Paris 08)
 
 
Christmas illuminations: Rues Lepic, Abbesses 

VILLAGE LEPIC/ABBESSES
Montmartre/Pigalle/Trinité (PARIS 18) 

 Place Vendôme, rue de la Paix, rue de Castiglione
Festivals and festivities / , Festivities / 
PLACE VENDOME
Marais/Les Halles | Champs-Elysées/Musée du Louvre | Opéra/Grands boulevards (PARIS 01) 
 

 
 

Bertrand Delanoe, Paris’s Socialist mayor with grand ideas for the city’s future.  He wants to see Paris become less like a museum and more of a city that is welcoming and not resistent to change.  As a result, a lot has changed in Paris since he became mayor.  And now he’s ready to see the Cafe de Flore and other famous Parisian cafes hooked up and ready to provide wireless internet! 

Here’s a great article in today’s LA Times about what his plans for the city are.

Paris’ mode moderne
By Alissa J. Rubin, Times Staff Writer
November 14, 2006

WOULD Ernest Hemingway approve of Wi-Fi at the Cafe de Flore?

If Paris Mayor Bertrand Delanoe has his way, free wireless Internet will soon be on offer in public places throughout the city, including the cafe haunts on the Left Bank where the master of the chiseled phrase used to write longhand in small black notebooks.

Though it may be a little hard to imagine Hemingway writing “A Farewell to Arms” on a laptop, Delanoe is betting that “le Wi-Fi” (pronounced “wee-fee” here) is one of many changes in Paris that will attract creative spirits as well as legions of young people who might otherwise flee the tradition-bound city for places closer to the cutting edge.

Delanoe, 56, a socialist with strong views about how to make Paris competitive in the 21st century, has been reshaping the city’s image since he was elected in 2001. He wants to make Paris greener, more high tech, less uptight.

“Paris is extremely strong when it is most welcoming,” Delanoe told a news magazine shortly after his election. Previous mayors and the national government, he said, had “museumified” the city.

His goal is both to attract young people, some of whom in recent years have chosen to move to London for employment opportunities, and to attract new business, which increasingly looks to Eastern Europe or the Far East when opening offices.

“We can’t leave Asian cities like Seoul or Tokyo, or American cities like San Francisco or Philadelphia, to make the running” — that is, to dominate — “in digital matters,” said Delanoe this year when he announced plans to create 400 free wireless hot spots.

A mayor has little control over some of the policies most needed to assure that young people have prospects, but when it comes to making the face of Paris more inviting and helping the French capitalize on their leisure time, Delanoe is doing all he can. Since his election, the city has launched an impressive array of projects.

Paris Plage, the beach on the Seine, complete with brightly colored deck chairs and umbrellas set among 2,000 tons of sand trucked in by the city, has been an international sensation and a hit with Parisians stuck in the city during the dog days of summer. Year-round, roller-bladers and walkers replace cars along the quays on Sundays, and soon it will be possible to rent bicycles at low cost in the Metro subway stations for those who want to bike around central Paris.

Less well known is the massive work being done on a tramway designed to circle Paris, allowing residents of outlying districts to travel from one to another without having to go through the city center. The tram, which will be bordered by lawns and thousands of trees, is one of an array of policies aimed at improving the polluted Parisian environment. The hope is to reduce pollution emissions in the city by 50% by 2010.

The city also hopes to lay fiber-optic cables to 80% of its buildings by 2010 and has just inaugurated the Paris Biopark, a 333,000-square-foot complex for biotech companies.

“When we came into office in 2001, we had a city proud of its history, its beauty, its tourism, but employment was decreasing, population was decreasing, young families could not afford to stay here because they had trouble finding affordable housing,” said Christian Sautter, deputy mayor in charge of economic development and finance. “So we decided to work in three areas: culture, high technology and transportation.”

The new tram should be an incentive for people to leave their cars at home, mayoral officials said.

“We had buses that went around the city’s borders, but they had 60,000 passengers a day, people were packed like fish in boxes,” said Stephen Leclerc, a senior transportation expert in Delanoe’s office.

*

BEAUTIFUL, expensive, crowded and beset with gridlock traffic from early morning until late evening, Paris offers the traditional urban mix of glamour and vexation. Immigrants struggle to afford to live in the city so that they have access to work; people in the suburbs are furious that getting into the city remains so difficult.

Notwithstanding the Wi-Fi, Paris remains an old-fashioned city in many regards. Supermarkets close at 9 p.m., most restaurants close on Sunday and do not serve after 10:30 in the evening; the long working hours common in London, New York and Tokyo are unheard of here.

When Paris does embrace the modern, it often comes in the form of avant-garde art or architecture rather than deeper alterations in its infrastructure — or its culture.

In the last 2,000 years, Paris has been remade many times by powerful rulers, each intent on putting his imprint on the city. Delanoe has tried to balance the interests of Parisians who venerate the city’s 19th century architectural heritage with those who want to see the city innovate and respond to the massive need for subsidized housing for low-income families.

“In Paris, the remaking is not finished,” said Michel Carmona, a historian at the Sorbonne University who has written extensively on the history of Paris. “And maybe you can say it will never be finished.”

As is often the case with the mayor’s approach to urban planning, the city is looking back to go forward. In 1900, Paris had more than 100 tram routes; by 1930, they had almost all been dismantled as the Metro expanded and more people could afford cars.

Now, with traffic often at a standstill at peak hours, trams are looking attractive again. The first section of the new tramway will open in December. Also on the agenda for this year is extending Metro hours on weekends — it now closes citywide at 1 a.m. and reopens at 5 a.m. — and increasing bus service on weekends, when the trains are scarce.

The focus on public transportation is part of a larger effort to reclaim the city’s sidewalks and boulevards for pedestrians. That effort also includes programs to create small parks in every neighborhood so that people would be able to walk to green spaces rather than having to climb into their cars or crowd onto the subways to get to the vast Bois de Boulogne or one of the other large parks.

In 1898, when the impressionist painter Camille Pissarro completed his haunting cityscapes of the Avenue de l’Opera in sun and rain, the street life he captured was a world of gracious boulevards, outdoor cafes with ranks of sidewalk tables and above all a sense of space. Urban, yes, but never crowded. There was plenty of room for ladies with parasols and men in top hats to wend their way across the avenues traversed by horse-drawn carriages and even more room to promenade on the broad sidewalks.

The Avenue de l’Opera today still has a gracious air, but it is crowded with cars that overwhelm the lungs with exhaust fumes and the ear with the sound of horns and the roar of engines. Motorcycles careen between cars and pedestrians, making crossing the street hazardous. The trees that once lined many of the avenues are gone, either killed off by pollution or removed as the streets were broadened to accommodate more cars, Leclerc said.

“Since the late 19th century, sidewalks have been progressively redone,” he said. “Today they are one-third of the width that they were then. Trees were destroyed…. The municipal government is trying to take space from cars and give it back to pedestrians.”

*

THE work is gradually paying off, although some of the policies that planners believe are essential for Paris have some politically unpopular corollaries. In Paris, for instance, the result of discouraging people from using their cars and limiting surface parking has been a proliferation of motorcycles, which creates problems of its own — as the mayor heard at a recent town hall meeting.

Delanoe, who favors an informal American style of politics, holds a couple of town meetings every month, each in a different arrondissement, or district. This one, held in the ornate Salle de Marriage of the City Hall for the 4th arrondissement, drew about 500 people although it was a rainy weekday evening.

The 4th arrondissement is a buzzing neighborhood on the Right Bank of the Seine. Once a Jewish quarter, it is crisscrossed with small streets lined with chic clothing boutiques, a crowded gay bar scene and one of the most beautiful squares in the city, the 17th century Place des Vosges. It also often is beset with all but impassable traffic because of the combination of cramped streets and busy commerce. During his town hall, Delanoe got an earful.

“The car traffic decreased 15% since 2001, but the two-wheel traffic has increased by 20%,” said one indignant man who had stood in line for the open mike. “Everybody can see that the sidewalks now are obstructed by motorcycles. The drivers maneuver the motorcycles into the bus lanes where the bicyclers are also supposed to ride, and that makes it very dangerous for a family that is bicycling.”

Delanoe sighed. He knows that reducing traffic is a Rubik’s Cube. “We’ve been asking Parisians to use their cars as little as possible. A lot of them chose to use motorcycles. Now, I can’t ignore that they’ve taken that first step of not using their cars — it’s progress.”

On a sunny Sunday, the Parc Monceau again hums with life. Originally designed as a sort of private garden for the luxurious mansions of the fashionable 8th arrondissement, it has long since become a public park, extending into the more bourgeois 17th arrondissement, populated by Parisians of more diverse backgrounds.

Beloved by impressionist painters for its duck pond surrounded by neoclassic arches, the park’s twisting paths pass by statues half hidden in the foliage, making its few acres seem far larger.

Under Delanoe, prohibitions on sitting on the lawn have become a thing of the past, and fathers and sons play soccer, performance artists juggle, families picnic, and couples sit reading.

The park’s delicate poplars and broad maples have changed little over the last 200 years, but on this Sunday, Asians and Arabs, white Europeans and black Africans all saunter through the trees, offering a glimpse of what Paris could become: the past and the present, with a future.

 

This temporary exhibition at the newly re-opened Orangerie Museum in the Tuileries Gardens is a walk down memory lane, looking back at one of its past exhibitions from the first half of the 20th century. True, the same exhibition, “Painters of reality in France in the 17th century”, was organised in 1934 and drew interest in 17th century art.  This is indeed a step off the beaten path for a museum who devotes itself almost entirely to Impressionism of the 19th century, most notably Monet’s Waterlily series.

This year’s exhibition will include 17th-century paintings, works by Georges de La Tour, the Nain brothers, Philippe de Champaigne, etc.

Other “painters of reality” such as Picasso, Leger, Balthus, Berard and Helion will be included in the exhibition as well. 
MUSEE DE L’ORANGERIE
Jardin des Tuileries 75001 PARIS
Metro : Concorde   
Closed:  Tuesdays

The Ukiyo-e woodblock prints Monet purchased from Japan will be on display at the Musee Marmottan this winter. His collection contains approximately 200 prints, many of them signed. These are the prints that decorated his home in Giverny, and which influenced him to build a Japanese style garden and pond on the property, thus influencing his greatest pieces.


 
MUSEE MARMOTTAN - MONET
2, rue Louis-Boilly 75016 PARIS
Metro : La Muette  
RER : Boulainvilliers   
 

Full price : 8 Euros   
 
Reduced price (students and seniors): 4,50 Free under 8 years old  
 
 

From next week, no liquids will be allowed in the cabins of aircrafts at the Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris.

Exceptions to this rule:  liquid baby food and liquid medicines with prescription.


Keep in mind the waits at CDG are extra long as they continue to implement this liquid ban.  This is for all flights, not just those going to and from the U.S. and U.K.

Paris airport strips Muslim employees of security passes 

Last Updated: Thursday, November 2, 2006 | 3:34 PM ET  CBC News 

Dozens of Muslim employees at France’s largest airport have been stripped of their security clearance under suspicion that they visited terrorist training camps in Afghanistan and Pakistan, airport officials said.  Officials at Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris took away 72 security passes after more than 100 baggage handlers and cleaners were placed under surveillance for several months. 

One employee is alleged to be an acquaintance of would-be shoe-bomber Richard Reid, while another employee was linked to an Algerian resistance group with alleged ties to al-Qaeda, airport officials said.  “There is a suggestion that there were a large number of extreme individuals working near a large number of aircraft that fly all over Europe and into North America,” the CBC’s David Common said Thursday. 

The employees said they are being targeted because they are Muslim. Some have threatened to sue the airport.  Airport officials dismissed claims of racism, citing that about 20 per cent of the 18,000 employees are Muslim, while fewer than 100 were suspended. One man of Sikh origin is among those. 

The suspensions were handed out about a month ago, but the information didn’t come to light until now, Common said.  The employees’ labour union was backing the employees in their attempts to have their security clearance reinstated, but there is little talk of a widespread job action such as has paralyzed France in the past, Common said. 

Charles de Gaulle Airport is the second-busiest airport in Europe, behind London’s Heathrow Airport, and handled more than 53 million passengers last year, according to Airports Council International.  The surveillance investigation was sparked by a French journalist’s book released six months ago that claimed the airport had major security problems. 

The suspensions come as racial tensions are running high in France, which recently marked the first anniversary of fiery riots in the country’s poorer neighbourhoods.  The riots spurred controversy about race and racism in France because many of the people involved in the riots were the children or descendents of immigrants, especially from former colonies in Africa and Muslim North Africa. 

Many children of immigrants feel they don’t have the same number of opportunities in French society because of their religion, skin colour or non-French names. 

Fouquet’s Barriere is the latest high end hotel to appear in the tawny 8th arrondissement of Paris.  It is on the “luxury side” of the Champs Elysees, sitting with Louis Vuitton, Laduree and of course the very famous restaurant Fouquet’s.  Across the street is the more mainstream side of the Champs Elysees, with the Virgin Megastore, Disney and McDonald’s.

The cheapest room at Fouquet’s Barriere goes for 690 euros a night, and a duplex suite will cost you 2,800 euros a night.  If you really want a splurge, and a view of the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe, book the penthouse suite for 15,000 euros!

This marks the first luxury hotel built in Paris since the Bristol in 1928.  To read more about the Fouquet’s Barriere, read this article from Bloomberg.com.

 

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