The LA Times food critic spent some time in Paris and has discovered what many of us already knew:  Parisian restaurants are doing away with the stuffy menus and curt waiters and introducing a more relaxed yet still delicious way of dining.

Here is a link to her reviews.  Among the restaurants reviewed are:

Le Villaret (11e arrondissement): 

13, rue Ternaux (Métro: Parmentier). Phone (from the U.S.): 011-33-1-4357-8976; fax: 011-33-1-4357 -8969.

Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday and August. Serves until 12 a.m. weekdays, 1 a.m. Saturday.
“The crowd is hip, as opposed to trendy, boho Parisians and the occasional foreigner, enough off the radar that I didn’t hear a word of English, except for our table.”  Around 60 euros per person including wine.

La Table de Joel Robuchon (16th arrondissement): 

16, Avenue Bugeaud (Métro: Victor Hugo).

Phone (from the U.S.): 011-33-1- 5628-1616; fax: 011-33-1-5628-1678.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.
“But it’s an elegant boîte (in the tony 16th arrondissement) with gold-leafed walls and dark wood shutters. Service from a multiethnic wait staff is crisp but relaxed, some of the best I’ve had anywhere. And hurray, it’s open on Sundays. “  Around 150 euros per person including wine at this 2 star restaurant.

Gaya (6th arrondissement):

 44, rue du Bac (Métro: Rue du Bac).

Phone and fax (from the U.S.): 011-33-1-4544-7373.

Closed Saturday lunch, all day Sunday and August. 
“A meal at this diminutive two-story place with one Michelin star is pure pleasure. The upstairs dining room is painted a seaworthy blue. Tabletops of some kind of fiberglass or resin, sans linen, are printed with images of kelp. The menu is just one page, as is the savvy wine list.” 

Pinxo (1st arrondissement): 

Hotel Renaissance Paris Vendôme, Plaza Paris Vendôme, 9, rue d’Alger (Métro: Tuileries)

 Phone (from the U.S.): 011-33-1-4020-7200; fax: 011-33-1-4020-7202.

Closed August.
“Here, two-star chef Alain Dutournier (Carré des Feuillants) weighs in with a menu of light, smaller plates with a Spanish and Basque accent.”

Benoit (1st arrondissement): 

20, rue St. Martin (Métro: Chatelet).

Phone (from the U.S.): 011-33-1-4272-2576; fax: 011-33-1-4272 -4568;

e-mail: restaurant.benoit @wanadoo.fr. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Closed August.
“With lace curtains at the windows and a collection of porcelain and antique water bottles, it very much looks the part from the street. But then the door opens onto a vision of polished brass, red velvet banquettes and waiters in formal black leaning over tables to serve cassoulet or veal daube from a cart. Someone takes your coat, you slip onto a banquette, open the menu and sigh with pleasure.”

Le Comptoir (6th arrondissement): 

Hotel Rélais Saint-Germain, 9, Carrefour de l’Odéon (Métro: Odéon).

Phone (from the U.S.): 011-33-1-4329-1205; fax: 011-33-1-4633-4530.

Open for lunch and dinner daily; dinner Monday through Friday is a 42-euro prix fixe menu, by reservation only. Menu is a la carte; no reservations are taken for lunch Monday through Friday and for lunch or dinner Saturday and Sunday.

“Le Comptoir, the new bistro from Yves Camdeborde, who used to be the chef-owner of La Régalade, another of my all-time favorites, is a tough reservation. I made one for three people a couple of months in advance, and kept calling to see if I could possibly extend the table to four. Each time, after checking the books, the voice on the phone always said “non.” When we arrive, I see why. Our table for three is actually a corner deuce with the third person (me) crammed between a pillar and the step down to the sidewalk terrace.”  42 euros prix fixe dinner

Alain Ducasse has won the bid for the concessions at the Eiffel Tower.  This would include the restaurants “Altitudes 95″ and the famed “Jules Verne”, as well as the fast food concessions on the tower.

Nobody quite knows what to expect, but what Bertrand Delanoe (Mayor of Paris) hopes for is better food that matches the great views.  Not that the food was necessarily bad, especially at Jules Verne where it has always been quite good.  But Altitudes’ food never quite matched its hype, and this will hopefully be remedied with the change in management.

“There are now so many people applying to be garbage collectors in Paris that the city council has instituted a written exam for applicants. The position offers a secure, relatively well-paid government job with full benefits and a pension at a time of high unemployment in France.

NPR’s Eleanor Beardsley reports from Paris on the surprisingly coveted job of garbage collector in the City of Light.”

To listen to the story:

http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6537432&ft=1&f=1006

Every year the GaultMillau restaurant guide names the “Chef of the Year”.  In this year’s 35th annual edition (2007), the winner is Jean-Francois Piege, the 36-year-old chef of Les Ambassadeurs in the Hotel de Crillon. 

During his career, Piege spent a few years working under chef Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athenee, and it was in 2004 that he left for Le Crillon.  In 2005 Les Ambassadeurs earned two Michelin stars.

How did other restaurants fare in the GultMillau this year?
Paris restaurants rating 19/20:
Gagnaire
Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athenee
Passard
Guy Savoy

Paris restaurants rating 18/20:
L’Ambroisie
Le Pre Catalan
Le Bristol

17/20:

Michel Rostang

The windows of the Maison de l’Alsace on the Champs Elysees will be covered with paintings representing Christmas in Alsace.  Each of the 22 windows will be unveiled, one per day, during the four weeks of Advent. 
 
MAISON DE L’ALSACE
39, avenue des Champs-Elysées  75008 PARIS
Metro : Franklin-D Roosevelt  
RER : Charles de Gaulle - Etoile   
 
Dates and times
 
From 11-23-2006  to 12-24-2006  Unspecified date 
 
 
 
 

During this Christmas season, you can enjoy a light show at Notre Dame Cathedral.  The show lasts approximately one hour, and it mixes Biblical texts, narration, music and images of the greatest works in Christian art. 
CATHEDRALE NOTRE-DAME DE PARIS
6, place du Parvis-Notre-Dame  75004 PARIS
Metro : Cité  
RER : Saint Michel - Notre Dame  
http://www.cathedraledeparis.com  
 
Dates and times
 
From 12-2-2006  to 2-2-2007  
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
 

Hotel de Ville:

On the parvis of the Hotel de Ville, enjoy one huge ice rink for leisurely skating, one small rink for beginners and a slide for children.  Rinks are free and you can rent skates for 5 euros.  It is required to wear gloves or mittens on this rink.   
 
 
PLACE DE L’HOTEL-DE-VILLE
place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville  75004 PARIS
Metro : Hôtel de Ville  
RER : Châtelet Les Halles   
 
From 12-2-2006  to 3-4-2007 

Montparnasse:

This is a medium sized rink located in Montparnasse. Admission to the rink is free, and skates can be rented for 5 euros.  You must wear gloves on this rink.
 
Place Raoul-Dautry
Place Raoul-Dautry 75015 PARIS
Metro : Montparnasse Bienvenüe   

From 12-2-2006  to 3-4-2007  

Eiffel Tower

The first level of the Eiffel Tower is transformed into a skating rink.

TOUR EIFFEL
Champ de Mars 75007 PARIS
Metro : Bir Hakeim  
RER : Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel   
Information : 01 44 11 23 23  
fax : 01 44 11 23 22   
http://www.tour-eiffel.fr
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

This outdoor Christmas festival is a wonderful event for children of all ages, including rides, Santa’s train and games. 
 
 
Where? PLACE DE LA BASTILLE   75004 PARIS
Metro : Bastille   
 
 
From 12-16-2006  to 1-7-2007  
 
 
Rides are priced by the ticket. 
 
Or, go to the 12th arrondissement where you can enjoy a winter wonderland.  They’ve brought in the snow, it’s up to you to enjoy it!

The festival takes place in the heart of the Place des Vins de France, near Bercy Village in the 12th arrondissement.  Children as young as 4 can walk in old fashioned snow shoes or ski.  There is skiing for 4 - 15 year olds.  Parents can enjoy mulled wine and fondue, or go enjoy the hot tub. It’s the next best thing to being in the Alps! 
 

 
XIIe ARRONDISSEMENT
 75012 PARIS
Place des Vins de France – Métro : Cour Saint Emilion 
 
Dates and times
From 12-1-2006  to 12-3-2006 
 
 
 
 

La Grande Roue (ferris wheel) is back at the Place de la Concorde this Christmas season.  Enjoy it, because they take it away on January 7!

Where?  PLACE DE LA CONCORDE   75008 PARIS
Metro : Concorde  
RER : Charles de Gaulle - Etoile   
 
From 12-16-2006  to 1-7-2007 
 
 
 
 
Full price : Adultes : 8 €
Enfants moins de 10 ans : 6 €  
 

All over Paris you will soon get the chance to hope on special Merry Go Rounds just to celebrate the Christmas holiday. 

Here are some of the areas where the rides will be located:

Square du Temple - 3e

place de l’Hôtel de Ville - 4e

around Square St-Médard - 5e

 place de l’Odéon - 6e

 place Joffre - 7e

 place de la Madeleine - 8e

 place de la Concorde - 8e

 place Lino-Ventura - 9e

 Square Alban-Satragne - 10e

 place Léon-Blum - 11e

 avenue Daumesnil - 12e
place d’Italie - 13e

 angle rue Didot/rue d’Alésia - 14e

 place Raoul-Dautry - 15e

 place du Trocadéro - 16e

 place Docteur Félix-Lobligeois - 17e

 Square Louise-Michel - 18e

 place Armand-Carrel - 19e

Mairie du 20e