L’atelier des Chefs: This school is run out of Galeries Lafayette and Printemps department stores in the ninth arrondissement. You can learn anything from one dish to a 3 course menu. They even have a class on cocktails and one for children 7 and up. Prices range from 15 – 136 euros and require 1/2 hour to 4 hours of your day.
L’Atelier des Sens: This cooking school offers classes in French and ethnic cuisine, pastry making and wine. The classes are taught in the morning, at noon, and in the early evening, and most require about 2-3 hours. Prices average around 60-80 euros, depending on the class.
Alain Ducasse Cooking School: This class is offered in the 8th arrondissement. Most classes run four hours and you can choose between cooking and pastry, although they do offer a full day and an evening class as well. Prices depend on how many people are in your group, and it should be noted that they charge a fee for a translator. Average class price is around 150 euros.
Le Cordon Bleu: The famous Cordon Bleu school offers everything from bread to wine to pastry to cuisine classes. Many of their courses are for serious cooks looking for a certificate or diploma, but they do offer day long “gourmet sessions” for about 142 euros.
Le Notre Cooking School: This school offers day or half day classes in French cuisine, pastry and even classes for children from 8 – 17 years old. Prices range from 40 euros for children to 280 euros for an entire day at Le Notre.
Francoise Meunier: Francoise is a chef who wants to share her talents. She will teach you how to make a starter, main dish and dessert, or three different desserts. The classes last about 2 hours, but afterward you enjoy your meal together with Francoise. English is spoken. Classes run 100 euros each, Wednesday – Saturday.
La Cuisine de Marie Blanche: Marie Blanche offers cooking, pastry and wine classes, as well as an “art de vivre” class to teach you how to live as the French do! For about 145 euros, you can learn to make three courses in about three hours, then share the meal with Marie when you are done.
L’Atelier Saveur et Savoir: This is another cooking school where you can learn general cuisine, pastry or wine pairings. A four hour class will cost around 80 euros, a longer class will be more. Open Wednesday – Saturday.
Ecole Escoffier at the Ritz Carlton: The prestigious Ritz offers cooking classes for 2 – 4 hours, 50 – 125 euros. They offer a three day summer class for 530 euros in July and August. They also have wine classes and classes for children.
Patricia Wells: Patricia Wells has perhaps the most popular cooking class in Paris and Provence, and her classes book up years in advance. She is pricier than many, with a five day session costing $4,000 (not including lodging).
More and more I am hearing of the Parisian restaurant scene becoming easier to access, less expensive, more festive and less pretentious. Major chefs are simplifying their cuisine and their dining rooms in order to cater to an entirely different clientele. They are still wowing the critics, but in an atmosphere that allows them to enjoy sharing their skills with a larger variety of diners. This year’s Michelin Red Guide has had to find a way to incorporate these new trends with their three star system, one that has been in place for a century. And for the first time ever the 2006 edition of the guide gives two stars to a restaurant that doesn’t even use table linens (Senderens). Here is an excellent article discussing the new wave of Michelin star restaurants from the Washington Post.
A visit to the fashionable Parisian Hotel Costes, in my experience, is an exercise in snobbery, a lot of see and be seen “atmosphere” and very little friendly service. I’ve been to some of the best hotels in the world and have been treated like royalty, but not at the Costes. Perhaps that’s just my experience. I recently read two articles about the Costes. One by a British hotelier who loved it, another by a young American ex-pat whose experience mirrors my own. Here are the links to the two, you be the judge! But before you book your trip to Paris, check out my hotel recommendations…you’ll notice the Costes is missing!
British hotelier who loves the Costes.
American ex-pat who found the Costes a bit on the frigid side.
The Tour d’Argent, a famously expensive restaurant on the left bank overlooking the Seine and Notre Dame, has lost a star much to their chagrin. They say it’s because they “opted out” of this year’s edition, while the Michelin people say it’s based on customer reviews and comings and goings of chefs. Every year the publication of the Michelin guide is met with some surprise, good or bad, and this year is a bad one for the Tour d’Argent. You can read more about it in this article.
Alain Senderens, the chef behind the famous 3* Lucas Carton restaurant in Paris, closed the doors of that establishment to open a cheaper, simpler place. He wanted a restaurant people could afford, something that he could enjoy for the love of the food, avoiding the stress of having to maintain his Michelin stars. His restaurant, Senderens, was visited by the Michelin folks for their 2006 edition of the Red Guide, and they gave him two stars anyway! It’s an amusing story you can read in this article.
Some people think you can’t take your kids to Paris, but there are a lot of things to see, do and enjoy with your entire family. From the parks and gardens to the monuments and museums, you can see Paris through the eyes of your children. Here’s a great article about traveling with children to Paris from the New York Times.
| Ingres lived from 1780 – 1867, was considered an eccentric and was loved by 20th century artists such as Picasso. At the Louvre until May 15, you can see 180 of his pieces — the largest exhibition of his works in 40 years. Check out more on Ingres and this exhibit at the Louvre at their Web site. |
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The Man Ray bar-restaurant-club is owned by Johnny Depp, John Malkovitch, Mick Hucknall (of Simply Red) and Sean Penn. It has always done well as the Man Ray, but has changed to Madalaray. Not much else has changed, though, as they still have the same general lineup of soirées.
Monday night is Opera Dinner, which is something different and fun to do.
For more information, contact Johnny Depp. Or, check the Mandalaray web site!
From February 14 – May 23, 2006. At the Picasso museum, learn about Picasso’s work between 1935 and 1945, from the Spanish Civil War to the Liberation, when he posed as a resistance fighter. You can see Guernica, l’Aubade and the Carnel House. Much of this work is unfamiliar because it was not allowed to be shown during the Occupation. Dora Maar, his companion at the time, was a photographer and recorded this part of their life in a series of photographs.
MUSEE NATIONAL PICASSO
Hôtel Salé 5, rue de Thorigny 75003 PARIS
Metro : Saint Paul
RER : Châtelet-les-Halles
Bus : 29, 69, 75, 96
Information : 01 42 71 25 21
Booking : 01 42 71 25 21
There are a few of these traditional hammams, or bath houses, throughout Paris. A North African tradition, you can spend a few hours in total relaxation, away from the noise and traffic of the city, enjoying mint tea and a massage for as little as $17 per person. Check out this USA Today article for information on what to expect during your Hammam visit and where you can go to enjoy this unique experience!
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